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Dividing & Storing Dahlias Tubers Workshop

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Oct. 17th @  3pm  and Oct. 20th @ 10am

$50pp    49 Simcoe St. Lindsay

 I will demonstrate & guide you through dividing clumps into individual tubers and prepare for storage. You will begin with a practice clump, which I will supply. I will then guide you through dividing 2 clumps* of your own.  (Instructions for digging below)

What to bring:   2 clumps from your garden, washed

                                -hand pruners

                                -snips or scissors

To reserve your spot, please contact me at Curlygirlgardening@gmail.com or call/message  705-324-3233

​Limited Space Available

please e-transfer  to

curlygirlgardening@gmail.com

*Dig wide & deep when harvesting clumps, as sometimes clumps are huge!   Wash with hose to remove dirt & expose the crown (the area around the stem where the tubers attach).   Set in SHADE, on the grass, to dry.  DO NOT set on carboard, concrete or in the sun.  Your tubers will begin to dry out, getting rubbery, within hours! 

Dig your clumps the day before or day of workshop. 

Check on your tubers in storage.

Check on your dahlia tubers in storage monthly!

It’s not always easy to get your dahlia tubers to survive winter storage.

There are many methods, and it all comes down to YOUR space. What works

for one person may not work for you because of the temperature, humidity

and storage medium used. Ideally, dahlias love temperatures of 4-8c

& humidity 75-80%. They store well in plastic bins or bags, with peat moss or

vermiculite. Generally, storing in paper or cardboard will dry out your

tubers, though some people do have success with this method.

 

My first couple years growing dahlias I stored in cardboard boxes and newspaper.

Guess what? They shrivelled & rotted. The next year I did a test of a few in

vermiculite, some in peat moss, all in plastic bins or bags. I had almost NO loss!

For environmental reasons, I choose to use vermiculite as my primary storage

medium. It can be re-used and does not spread rot, as peat can. It is however,

very expensive. This year I tried a new method to me, where I cure my tubers

for several weeks in wood shavings, outside. When they were no longer

cool to the touch, meaning the skins were tough and they were dry, then I moved

them into their storage space. All is going well and I am quite liking this method.

I am also lucky to have a cold room which stay between 2-6c all winter,

with ideal humidity as well.

 

This is why you check on your tubers!

 

Problems can happen over winter storage, sometimes can’t even be

explained, but with regular checkups, we can hopefully stop the

problem and prevent further loss.

 

Depending on your storage space, there may be too much humidity and

you will find drops off moisture on your lids. Wipe off the moisture and

crack the lid open for a week or so.

-If you find mold on tubers, wipe it off, apply some cinnamon,

again, keep the lid cracked a bit.

- If your tubers are in cardboard and you notice them shrivelling up & drying out,

then you should change your storage medium or container to

something like peat & plastic. In a pinch, you could use dry potting mix.

-keep cardboard off the floor, as concrete sucks the moisture quickly

-If already in peat or vermiculite, and you find them drying out, add just a

little spritz of water. It will not re-hydrate them, but it will help prevent further loss.

-The drying up is also a sign of too high of a temperature. Move to the coldest

area of your home. Close to the floor in a heated garage, or possibly,

higher on a shelf, next to the house in an unheated garage. But you must

monitor your temperatures. If the temperature drops to freezing, you will lose them

-if you notice squishy tuber, they are rotting. Remove them completely and

check on tubers close by, as the rot can pass along through peat

-rot may have already been present in the tuber when you dug it up, or

you may have too much moisture in your storage area

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Tubers curing outside (in my carport). 

Tubers were dug,washed & split the same day,  put into their bins with shavings.  Bins are stacked and with no lids, allowing lots of airflow.  The skins on the tubers will harden and you will be feel the "cool dampness" disappear after approx 3 weeks.  That's when you know they are fully cured and ready for cold storage.  With this process, the tubers will not shrink/dry up. 

These were stored in the same shavings, in a cold room,  varying between 2-5C and 80% humidity all winter. 

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